I sat down in front of one of the male silverbacks, just three meters away. He looked at me and I looked at him. We had this moment of understanding. He knew I meant no harm and I wasn't scared even though I knew he could charge or even kill me if he wanted to. I felt calm, at ease and in just such disbelief that they were there, right in front of me. When you wait for something for so long, sometimes it's hard to believe it is real. 

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